Darshan in Puttaparthi

I've just been to morning darshan in the mandir in Puttaparthy and met Ian on the way back to the hotel. Darshan is the reason this small otherwise non-descript south Indian town exists for it is here that the holy man of South India, Sri Sathya Sai Baba, lives.

Over the years a large following has built up around Sai Baba and this former village on the Chittravatti River is now a thriving centre with a busy bazaar, beggars, traders, sellers of anything and everything mixed in with apartments straight out of vogue magazine.

Every morning and afternoon thousands of people, both Indian and from every corner of the globe, gather quietly in the Mandir (an ornately decorated temple which accommodates about 6,000 seated on the marble floor) and wait for Baba to appear where they can briefly view him (darshan).

Once the darshan is over, the singing of Indian bhajans (religious songs sung in groups) starts with one or two lead singers leading with a verse followed by the same verse sung by the thousands. To say it is very moving is an understatement. I've heard these bhajans sung on CD but the real thing is something else. I saw hundreds of people this morning swaying to the beat of the tabla and chorus of the harmonium and in an obviously blissful state. It really is something to experience.

Two local cops have just entered the internet centre and are seated just across the way. I am not sure if they are checking undesirable, like Ian and I, or looking at more sinister stuff on the net! The later is unlikely as even alcohol is banned in this town, it being a religious centre, but we have met an expat American who can get us a 12-pack of Indian beer for $21 so we'll go for it. Anything cool to drink at night is welcome and the bland bottled water doesn't really float our boat.

After two weeks in India we have finally experienced mosquitoes in our screened-windowed, air-conditioned hotel so the buggers are obviously smart enough to find a way in and even though we've been religiously taking our anti-malarial tabs I think we'll invest in a Zapper as a backup. The idea of smothering ourselves in RID at night is not a pleasant thought.

Well, that's it for today, weather here will get to about 32 or 33 today and maybe an afternoon downpour like yesterday. In the meantime we're off to battle the traffic and try and avoid the many pleading outstretched hands asking for money. Some we do... some we don't. You can't save the world.